Beginner’s Guide to: Belay Devices
Posted by Neil | August 10, 2011
Belay Devices are one of the most essential parts of your climbing kit. Used to control the rope during climbing, the belay device is effectively your ‘brake’ to ensure both you and your climbing partner’s safety in case of a fall, and to control a climber’s descent. After putting on a climbing harness correctly and tying in, they’ll probably be the next thing you’ll learn to use.
The most common and popular type of belay is the classic ‘basket’ shaped belay; simple to use, with no moving parts and extremely efficient, they’re the staple device for most climbers, both beginner and pro.
Most of the basket-type belay devices look very similar, and usually work in the same way. Each manufacturer tweaks their design slightly to provide slightly different performance, but what you’ll often find is each climber develops a favourite over time…if you’re down the wall try asking around to see what people think of theirs. Most importantly, when used correctly they’re all just as safe as each other.
There are also mechanical belays like the Petzl GRI GRI 2 which use assisted braking (a bit like a car seat-belt) to provide a bit of extra safety; assuming they’re used correctly, they are also good for belaying with furry old indoor wall ropes. Another type of device which can be used to belay is the Figure of Eight, but their main purpose is for rappelling, so we wouldn’t recommend them for beginners.
One thing you’ll need to use your belay device is a nice big HMS style carabiner, which helps provide a good surface for the rope to run over when belaying. One of Gear-Zone’s personal favourites is the Belay Master which features a plastic clip which will only shut if the screwgate is correctly tightened, and also prevents cross-loading. It definitely helps early on in your climbing career.
Here’s a list of Gear Zone’s Top 6 Belay Devices
Petzl Grigri 2
The Petzl Grigri2 is an updated version of the Grigri. It’s lighter, smaller and designed to work with smaller ropes than its predecessor and also has smoother lowering. Its assisted braking systems work in a similar fashion to a car’s seatbelt. If the rope suddenly comes under tension the cam pivots to pinch the rope, helping the belayer to stop the climber’s fall. (It does not guarantee ‘hands-free’ belaying though!)
Compatible with ropes with diameter 8.9mm to 11mm.
Single Rope Only
Weight: 185g
DMM Bug
The DMM Bug has generous rope radius and works well with wet ropes. It has smooth rope feed action and is anodised for corrosion resistance. Its ridges provide excellent heat dissipation. DMM also make a smaller, lighter version called the Bugette, which is compatible with ropes with diameter 7.5mm to 9.5mm, and weighs just 27g!
Compatible with ropes with diameter 9mm to 11mm
Single or Double Ropes
Weight: 80g
Black Diamond ATC (Air Traffic Controller)
The Black Diamond ATC is a firm favourite with climbers, and has an iconic design. The sleek profile allows the rope to move smoothly through the belay and helps prevents the rope kinking while rappelling.
Compatible with ropes with diameter 7.7mm - 11 mm
Single or Double Ropes
Weight: 60g
Mammut Vader Light
Extremely lightweight and compact, the Mammut Vader Light is suitable for double, half, and single ropes. The “Labyrinth” V-shaped grooves provide excellent extra braking power when you need it. Weighing just 58g, the Mammut Vader Light is a great choice for climbers who need to watch the weight of their rack.
Compatible with ropes with diameter 7.5mm – 10.5mm
Single or Double Ropes
Weight: 58g
Clog Flyer 2
The Clog Flyer 2’s basic design and excellent price point make it a great entry level belay device. Its deep groves ensure your ropes guide smoothly through. It also has great stopping power.
Compatible with ropes with diameter 8.5mm – 11mm
Single or Double Ropes
Weight: 70g
Wild Country VC Pro 2 (Variable Controller)
The Wild Country VC Pro 2 can be used in two different modes – ‘slick’ or more ‘bite’, making it suitable for a wide range of ropes. Key features include its large keeper loop and deep ‘V’ slots which provide firmer belaying grip. The Wild Country VC Pro 2 is ideal for sports, double rope traditional and alpine climbing.
Compatible with ropes with diameter 7.7mm (single) and 9mm (double)
Single or Double Ropes
Weight 80g
Safety Notice
Climbing is a hazardous sport and there’s a very obvious and realistic chance of injury or death if safety procedures and equipment aren’t used properly! Gear-Zone recommends that anyone n
Posted in Climbing, Gear Guide, Trips & Expeditions
